Olifants Wilderness Trail, Kruger National Park

Young leopard near Orpen. It was stalking impala. The rams were snorting at it and mobbing it.

The African bush has been calling for a while, so we packed up and headed 2000 km north-east for Kruger and our favourite means of really experiencing the bush: wilderness walking trails. Our first trail was the Olifants Wilderness Trail, one of Kruger’s seven and one of two that we had not walked as yet. Olifants opened in November 1979, a little over a year after the first wilderness trail, Wolhuter - which is named after a legendary ranger – did.

Olifants trails camp is situated on a bluff on the southern bank of the Olifants River (see the Google Earth track below) a little over 8 kms from the Mozambique border and Limpopo National Park. The thatched huts – 4 for 8 guests – have recently been rebuilt and are a good deal larger than the originals, but the camp still commands great views of the river below and the Lebombo mountains to the east.

Over two days of bliss with trails rangers Aaron and Michael we walked two morning circuits into the bush south and west of the camp, covering 10.9 and 10.6 km respectively, and on the second evening strolled out to the Olifants and Letaba confluence, just before the new river becomes the Rio Elefantes that thunders into the gorge through the Lebombos. It was on the confluence walk that we witnessed the strange behaviour of a young elephant descending the far bank to the river – it was dragging its hind legs flat behind it while walking down on its forelegs, appearing to use the dragging legs as brakes down the steep slope. Maybe it’s not so unusual, but it was a first time for me.

View Larger Map
Or download the kmz file of the Olifants and Machampane Trails’ tracks

I have written elsewhere about the “wilderness trail experience”, so I won’t bore you again with what it means to us. However, three phenomena got me thinking about humans’ impacts on these wild places, whether the impacts are proximate and direct, or influenced by consumptive behaviour on the other side of the world.  Firstly, Olifants is renowned for its concentrations of crocodiles where its banks would be “carpeted” with crocs, according to Aaron, but you are hard-pressed to spot one these days. In recent years there has been a massive die-off and although research has revealed no definitive cause, it is widely speculated that pollution from upstream industrial and agricultural activities is behind it.

Poached rhino's foot

Secondly, Aaron guided us to the site of a recent rhino poaching incident (see Google Earth track). Judging by the state of its teeth, it was an animal in the prime of its life. An ugly, jagged hole in its skull reveals how the horn was hacked out. One hundred and twenty-six rhino have been massacred in Kruger so far this year (333 in 2010) to fuel the demand from China, and lately Vietnam where rhino horn is being touted as a cure for cancer. Since the deployment of troops in Kruger (which I have always thought of as a brilliant idea, as is deploying our navy to protect our fisheries) the killing has gone from 40 in March, through 30 and 15 in April and May respectively, to 2 in June. Of course, the ultimate solution involves destroying Asian demand in some way, but protecting the remnants of the species with everything that we have is the least we can do in the interim.

Aaron claims that whereas he usually saw about 15 rhino on the trail in the course of a month, he might only see 1 in a week now. In one particularly tragic month, they lost 9 rhino. But at least we saw ample dung evidence of white and black rhino on the walks. Everybody is a suspect and it appears that syndicates pose as tourists these days – which may explain the increased security around unattended vehicles at the rest camps.

On an evening game drive we came across a stick of soldiers – “Recces” according to Aaron, but I am not so sure. The effect of military operations on the trail is that all movement by trailists east of the access road in the interesting folds of the Lebombo, has been suspended. Twenty poachers have been shot and killed in Kruger apparently and later at Machampane the talk around the campfire was about how many local Shangaan know someone who has been shot and are keenly aware of the dangers of poaching. This could just be bush legend of course…

At the confluence of the Olifants & Letaba

While the sources of the previously described impacts emanate from outside the park, the exciting and rare sighting of sable near Machampane Camp as we drove back to Kruger reminded me of the effects of management on the greater Kruger ecosystem. A recent report on the 50-50 TV show explained how artificial waterholes and dams have allowed water-dependent species like impala, wildebeest and zebra to become somewhat ubiquitous at the expense of rarer species such as roan and sable. Kruger is consequently gradually decommissioning artificial waterholes in order to recreate a more diverse mosaic of habitat. I suppose this partially explains why I saw sable near Machampane because Limpopo NP does not have dams and boreholes. In future we hope to see sable and roan more frequently on the Kruger side.

Machampane Wilderness Camp, Limpopo National Park, Mozambique

After Olifants we headed for Machampane, which is located only 25 km due north of Olifants trails camp on a tributary of the Rio dos Elefantes, but which requires a drive of some 80km and a border-crossing at Giriyondo. This was our third visit to Machampane which is a special place for us because of its remoteness, silence and location on a deep pool. Unfortunately, it seems to be often used as an overnight stop for 4×4 travellers on the way to and from the Mozambique coast. Unfortunate – because it is a great destination in and of itself and you have to spend a few days there to get a sense of the place. Whereas the Kruger trails are long enough for you to get that I-could-get-used-to-this feeling but short enough to ensure that you will be back (the “perfect product” in my book), Machampane allows you to determine the length of your own stay.

A previous visit is described here. If you compare the length of the trail tracks previously with those above, you will see that our walks were relatively short this time – unfortunately.

Or go to the photo album

Some sources and reading on rhino poaching:

http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,2075283,00.html

http://newswatch.nationalgeographic.com/2011/07/23/south-africas-rhino-slaughter-rages-on/

http://mg.co.za/article/2011-07-21-soldiers-lie-in-wait-for-kruger-rhino-poachers

Related posts:

1. Machampane Wilderness Trail Limpopo National Park, Mozambique: September 2007 Circles in the Bush...
2. The thing about African wilderness trails Walking on a wilderness trail is the only way to...
3. Nyalaland Wilderness Trail Northern Kruger Park: July 1999 The Nyalaland was our first...

View Larger Map

If the track doesn’t appear in the window above download the Google Earth Rim of Africa file and view it in Google Earth (download Google Earth)

The GE track shows almost every step of the trail as recorded on my Garmin Foretrex 101 personal navigator, waypoints describing some features or places, and geo-tagged photos.

We left our camp below Pakhuis Pass on a grey, misty day and our steps would be dogged by cold fronts and rain, except for the balmy days of our passage through the central Cederberg wilderness area from the Crystal Pools area to just north of Middelberg Pass. For me, those middle days were the highlights, especially when we skirted what would become known to the group as “the rim” between Bakleikraal and Breekkrans Valley. On that particular day one could literally see forever to the west, mountain ridge upon valley, as we raced a rapidly-closing cold front to our next campsite at Slangboshoek.

The trail was often tough – especially for those with less than optimal gear – always spectacular and uplifting, seldom a slog. We gazed out on vistas that few local hikers will ever see and listened to the utter silence of the rock and the metallic click of our walking poles as we picked our way south.

Eventually, having been trapped in our tents for a night and a morning by a raging storm at the head of the Elandskloof valley, we struck out into the fire-ravaged Hexberg Nature Reserve, a “lost” reserve. From there we climbed fire-blackened and white rock slopes and a sodden, peaty kloof into a gathering front in search of the gulley down to a remote valley. It was on the exposed ridges in rain, icy wind and poor visibility that Galeo and Ivan made the wise call to abort some 40km and two days short of our objective. I think the group was a little relieved to spend the night in a friendly farmer’s shed.

What an adventure, what an experience. Fitter and leaner I now look forward to completing the last couple of days and visiting Turret Peak. And then… stage two….

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Go to my Rim of Africa photo album

A Google Earth track of the trail, almost every step captured on a Garmin Foretrex 101, will follow shortly, along with a short account – once I have thought of something profound to write…

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Go to the hikers’ photo pool on Flickr

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The vision of the Rim of Africa is to create a mega-distance trail on a par with the best the world has to offer. Mega-distance trails in Europe and the USA play an important role in giving access to time in wilderness while stimulating a walking culture.

The Rim of Africa stretches from the greater Cederberg wilderness area on the Cape’s West Coast to the Outeniqua Mountains in the Garden Route, traversing more than 650km of mountain paths. The route takes in the Cederberg, Skurweberg, Hexrivier, Keeromberg, Langeberg and the Outeniqua representing a flagship hiking product of international significance, attracting hikers from around the world. There is potential to link the Rim of Africa to the Outeniqua Trail and on to the Eden to Addo Hike for Biodiversity creating an extended trail of 1200km ending at Addo Elephant National Park in the Eastern Cape.

I’m looking forward to getting “lost” in the wilderness, communing with Nature.

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Telling others that a wilderness trail is about finding out what it feels like to be in the food chain, rather than at its apex is a good attention-getter, but needlessly emphasises the danger element at the expense of the spiritual, educational and leisure elements. Consider the following definitions and descriptions of the essence of wilderness trails:

A concept unique to Africa in that it has evolved to imply a walk in the company of a game ranger or conservation officer, usually armed, through big game country. Aspects of the ecology of the area, environmental management and ethics are also explained and the emphasis is often on environmental education

Source: unknown

We aim at blending in and harmonising with the environment, and finding our niche in the cycle of life. We, in a sense, are seeking in a small way to rediscover primitive roots. As we show a respect for the wildlife and move in subservience, as opposed to dominance, as is a common habit of modern man, we find nature very forgiving and accepting. Experienced wilderness guides will lead you through the wilderness in such a way that you will feel secure and re-discover being “at one” with all around you.

Source: KZN Wildlife

The purpose of these trails is to “walk in search of a deeper spiritual understanding of nature and of our place in the universe”

Source: Wilderness Leadership Foundation

It is clear that wilderness can mean many things to the trailists, and for some it can be a profound, life-changing experience. For many a couple of days of immersion in nature evokes a heightened awareness of the interdependence of species and ecosystems, and the distance that we have put between ourselves and nature. If we are lucky we start to feel connected again, a part of nature, dependent. Education about life-support qualities of ecosystems, symbiotic relationships, the many uses of plants and natural resources reveal wilderness as both a source of wonder and inspiration, but also as a “classroom”. Here the interpretive skills and passion of the ranger are all important. For others, simply being outdoors is psychologically and physically restorative and therapeutic. One could characterise wilderness walking as active meditation – the wilderness as “cathedral”.

On another level one could simply revel in the physical exertion of walking in the heat, focusing on the next step – the wilderness as “gymnasium” – although the trails are not strenuous at all. And of course, there is the adrenalin charge of potentially dangerous situations, face-to-face with Africa’s megafauna, that is almost unique to the trails. Let’s not kid ourselves – it can be exciting and sometimes frightening. Feel alive! But once again the experience of the rangers is vital. I have never met one who was anything less than very cautious and who did not have the safety of his or her trailists – and the wildlife – at heart.

The pioneering wilderness trail was Ian Player’s Imfolozi wilderness trail which operates under the auspices of KZN Wildlife. I have not walked this one yet, but I believe that it remains true to its roots. The seven wilderness trails in the Kruger National Park are by now legendary since the Wolhuter Trail commenced in 1979 (in response to many questions I have written a short FAQ on Kruger’s wilderness trails ), and I try and walk them regularly, but they are notoriously difficult to book. The advent of private concessions in the Kruger Park has brought new wilderness trail experiences into being, admittedly of the more luxurious variety, but the walks themselves remain true to the wilderness ethos. Two highly recommended trails are Rhino Walking Safaris (which also features an exciting sleep-out in tree platforms) in Kruger and Machampane Wilderness Trail, in Mozambique’s Limpopo National Park, close to Kruger’s eastern border. By contrast, the Great Walk of Africa through Kenya’s Tsavo West and East National Parks is a completely unique wilderness walking experience, extending over 11 days on trail through really wild country. Our impressions of the Great Walk can be found here and here.

So feel the pulse of Africa. Try one – it will be addictive. The challenge for all of us is to take what we have learnt on a wilderness trail, our new insights – in short our newfound eco-literacy – back into everyday city life. And to reflect on our profligate consumption of resources and energy and what we can do to live in harmony within our ecosphere.

Above all, do not lose your desire to walk: every day I walk myself into a state of well-being and walk away from every illness; I have walked myself into my best thoughts, and I know of no thought so burdensome that one can not walk away from it.

– Soren Kierkegaard, from his Journals and Papers

First published on ecoAfrica’s Blog

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Circles in the Bush

(With apologies to Dalene Matthee…)

Machampane Wilderness Camp shares the western bank of the Machampane River with tall fever trees at a pool called Xisivene – which apparently means “deep pool”.

The wilderness trail experience that runs out of the camp is similarly structured to the iconic trails that operate in the Kruger National Park across the border. Machampane’s accommodation is a tad more luxurious though – large walk-in tents on stilts with en suite bathrooms.

or download the Google Earth track of Machampane wilderness trails.

As in Kruger, a day typically starts with tea or coffee at the crack of dawn, followed by a 3 to 5 hour wilderness walk in the surrounding bush. Upon your return to camp, tuck into a wholesome brunch, and then spend the rest of the afternoon relaxing on your tent’s deck watching the Pied Kingfisher launch numerous dive attacks on the fish in Xisivene, or read, or snooze…

After tea, set out on another 3-hour walk and return to a warm shower and good company around the “bush TV” – the fire pit – followed by dinner. By the second day you will have succumbed to the rhythm of the bush and forgotten about civilisation. The fact that Machampane is remote and there are no telephones nor internet simply helps the process.

www.flickr.com

The wilderness walks radiate out from the camp in large circles (see the tracks on Google Earth). There’s a fair amount of water around Machampane and the surrounding country varies from mopane woodland on Lebombo rhyolite to sandveld which supports taller mopane.

www.flickr.com

The trail is about reconnecting with nature, observing and existing within the web of life. As I have often written, wilderness trails are not about viewing big game. Having said that though, we did see elephant, lion, civet, honeybadger, lots of impala, zebra, wildebeest, spotted hyena, crocodiles and the area’s solitary hippo – Bob – while on foot.

The Machampane concession comprises a large wilderness area that borders Kruger Park to the west and extends down to Lake Massangir on the Olifants River. A fence still separates Limpopo, which was until fairly recently a hunting concession, and Kruger and over the last few years relocated wildlife have been released into a sanctuary area here, the fences of which are still visible south of the camp. Near the lake, but within the park, local Shangaan eke out a subsistence living on the land. Apparently the people will be relocated at some future stage.

www.flickr.com

Related posts:

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Sweni trails camp gate

The Sweni is one of the most sought-after wilderness trails in Kruger, primarily because of the likelihood of running into the Sweni lions. According to James, the trails ranger, Sweni has the highest concentration of lion per sq km in Africa (i.e. the world). So when I got the chance to book all 8 beds, I took it – and took my whole family and some of my in-laws. FAQ

We renewed acquaintances with old trail friends: James Steyn (with whom we walked the Napi), Kallie Ubisi (formerly of Wolhuter), and James Mathebula (who cooked on Wolhuter). The next morning we tried to track the lions we had been hearing since 3am. We got very close, hearing the calls and growls of at least 2 groups, to left and right, as we snaked into the misty savannah. But the mist defeated us as we followed their fresh spoor, stretching away from us to the south. Snacks on Bravo Koppie.

The ultimate afternoon walk! A pride of lions finishing off the last of last night’s giraffe kill, took flight as we approached on foot. The females are massive cats. Vultures and about 8 jackals descended on the skeleton, picking it clean in efficient silence. Behind us about 8 hyaena loped tentatively closer, sniffing the breeze. They would approach the carcass passing within metres of us and ignoring us as if we weren’t

Sweni walk at sunrise in the mist

On the Louis Trichardt road one evening a young female elephant charged us as we drove to the cliffs for sundowners. Accompanied by two other young females and a baby, she kept coming as we managed to get the vehicle past her. The others and the baby joined in, chasing us up the road with much trumpeting and bravado. The funny part was the baby’s eventual enthusiastic participation in the rout, trunk and tail extended for and aft, and its shrill, adolescent trumpeting. But that mommy elly meant business….

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Metsi-Metsi trails camp – it apparently means “water water” in Sotho – is located 6 km from the Mozambique border in rhyolite bushveld on the eastern aspect of N’wamuriwa mountain.

Day 1: Led by Rudi & Abel, the rangers, this day started with a

sunset at Silolweni

leisurely 8km ramble across the ridges south-east of the camp. The weather was pleasantly warm with the touch of a cool breeze. We enjoyed breakfast on the N’waswitsontso River. Our path crossed a loping herd of giraffe, including three juveniles, at fairly close range. Our group, all women except for me and the rangers, is easy-going and good company. No testosterone in sight – “rustig”. A quaint Metsi-Metsi initiation ritual involved spitting impala dung pellets across a line drawn in the sand by the ranger. If someone had suggested that I would put dung of any description in my mouth, I would have called them “bossies” – but I did…

Ernest, the camp cook, had prepared an excellent lunch back in camp – scrambled eggs, toast, baked beans, sweet corn, bacon, mashed potato. Of course with few males in camp there’s plenty to go around.
That afternoon the walk on western side of N’wamuriwa along the Nwaswitsontso River was memorable. We played hide-and-seek in the riverbed with herds of kudu ewes, giraffe and two bull elephants. Sundowners at Silolweni dam followed, where we were serenaded by pods of hippo, about 15 of whom were within 20m of us, and whose supper had been delayed by our presence.

Day 2: What a morning walk! We drove north to the northern reaches of the Metsi-Metsi near Lindinda Dam, and set off into a breezy north-easter. First we happened upon a breeding herd of elephant, then a lone white rhino cow who was aware of our presence but was caught between curiosity and fear,

Metsi-Metsi hut

and then – a first for me – a black rhino! We got to within 100m of it and took care to stay downwind. It was unaware of us, which is just as well as these animals don’t keep their distance once they’ve rumbled you.

Thinking that we had been especially blessed, we then spotted that rarest of cats, a cheetah, about 150m off to our left in the shade of a tree. It got to its feet and strolled parallel to our path and melted into the bush. Seeing cheetah (there are only about 200 in the 19000ha of Kruger) is rare, but meeting one while on foot is truly unusual. This event took place within tens of metres of the Wolhuter memorial, where the legendary Harry Wolhuter survived a lion attack, killing it with his knife while it was dragging him off.

One tends to focus on the big mammals, but in between we had been introduced to bag-worm nests, the uses of the magic gwarri tree, lizard eggs, the spongy praying mantis nest, the climate control and fungus gardens of the termite mound, and

Evening walk at Orpen dam

much more. My fifth wilderness trail has only served to confirm that these trails are the only way to truly experience the bush.

Wilderness Trail FAQ

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Well, not really. It was more like paradise. A perfect autumn weekend in the Cape mountains above Tulbagh and Porterville.Big Ron and I followed the Groot Kliphuis River down to De Tronk, our mission to experience “Die Hel”. We had wanted to do this hike for years, but it was almost invariably fully booked. This trip was also to be a farewell to our hiking buddy, Peter, who is leaving for the UK, but he was in too much of a spin to sacrifice the weekend to pleasure….

What is “Die Hel” ? It’s a deep, dark pool in the Groot Kliphuis River gorge. They say nobody knows how deep. It certainly is a spiritual place. The San adorned a nearby rock face with their rock paintings, but I doubt that they ever lived down here. It must have rather held some religious significance for them.

After the recent heavy rains, we had packed and prepared for rain and bitter cold. The place isn’t known as Groot Winterhoek for nothing. But with prescient timing we ventured into this beautiful wilderness on a balmy berg wind. It was warm enough to  try out almost every pristine pool in the rivers. How many places in the world can one still lie in a river and drink the water ? As we often tell each other: “another lousy day in Africa”. You’re going to miss the place, Peter….

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Once again Marion and I were privileged to participate in a wilderness trail (FAQ), this time the Napi Trail midway between Pretoriuskop and Skukuza. Napi was the newest of Kruger’s seven wilderness trails and its location at the confluence of the Napi and Mbiyamiti rivers was surely one of the most spectacular of all trails camps (unfortunately the camp was recently destroyed by fire). Perched high up on the bank of the Napi under rich riverine forest, the camp commanded wonderful views of the rivers. Our hut clung precariously, it seemed, to the sand cliff that had been undermined by last year’s floods. Steady rain on our last night in camp made the Napi gurgle far below our veranda, but the hut anchors were secure.

The undulating woodlands were green and luxuriant after the summer rains, and the grass long, making game sightings difficult. But as any trail junky will tell you, game viewing is not the purpose of the wilderness trail – it’s only a bonus. Just prior to the trail we had a stayed at a game lodge in a neighbouring reserve where seeing the Big Five is what is promised, and is consequently, what the guests have come to expect. And although we had wonderful leopard and lion sightings at the game lodge, it was somehow less satisfying than walking in wild bushveld, seeing fresh lion tracks, hearing them in the distance, knowing that they were probably watching us from the cover of long grass. On foot one confronts your own insignificance, your own vulnerability.

Besides the many white rhino we saw, we did see one significant antelope: the Liechtenstein’s hartebeest. Locally extinct for decades, some were recently re-introduced from Malawi. This one was limping and separated from the herd, his days numbered.

Once again I had the opportunity to polish my knowledge of bushveld trees, add the buffalo thorn to the list as well as the Zulu story about it being “the tree of life”, learn about sodic sites and how they form, etc., thanks to the knowledge of our trails rangers.

Long may Kruger’s wilderness trails renew our bonds with Nature.

(Note: this camp has since burnt down and is located elsewhere now)

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