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A Table Mountain circuit

Ralph — Sun, 01 Jan 2012 17:51:13 +0000

Bakoven from Kasteelspoort

In all the years of walking on the mountain I have never climbed Platteklip Gorge. At Peter’s suggestion we parked at Kloof Nek and tackled the 15.4 km circuit up Platteklip, through the valleys of Isolation and the Red Gods, to the reservoirs and down Kasteelspoort, and back along the Pipe Track. It was two days after Christmas and the mountain was topped by the table cloth (which made the steep Platteklip climb a whole lot easier). What struck me, however, was the high number of young people walking on the mountain and how representative they were of Cape Town’s cosmopolitan culture. Twenty years ago most hikers on any given day would have been members of the white middle-class; now there are kids from the townships, the Cape Flats, the suburbs, all obviously wanting to be on the mountain, all celebrating this wonderful place and all visibly enjoying a day out in nature. I can’t help but wonder whether the SA National Parks’ “people in parks” programme is actually working …

A Google Earth track of the walk and some photos follow..

Table Mountain cableway from the Pipe Track

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Platteklip Gorge (up) and Kasteelspoort (down) track profile

Peter at Woodhead reservoir

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The Boland Hiking Trail

Ralph — Mon, 26 Dec 2011 19:56:37 +0000

Aka The Return of Gaucho Pedro

This 3-day hike was like old times again – hiking with Peter Groves, my erstwhile hiking buddy who is out from the UK on holiday. Peter is also known as “Gaucho Pedro” after his escapades in Patagonia last year. The Hottentots Holland section of the Boland Trail is a circuit of some 40km through the heart of the rugged Hottentots Holland Nature Reserve, which is a key component of the Cape Floral Region protected areas that now enjoy UNESCO World Heritage Site status.

The World Heritage Site citation is clear about what makes this place special:

“The Cape Floral Region has been recognised as one of the most special places for plants—in terms of diversity, density and number of endemic species—in the world. Covering less than 0.5% of the area of Africa but home to nearly 20% of the continent’s flora, this extraordinary assemblage of plant life and its associated fauna is represented by a series of eight protected areas covering an area of 553,000 ha. These protected areas also conserve the outstanding ecological, biological and evolutionary processes associated with the beautiful and distinctive Fynbos vegetation, unique to the Cape Floral Region.”

A Google Earth track, track profiles and photos follow.

Day 1: Nuweberg to Landdroskop

We had an eventful start. I knew that the huts at Landdroskop had been closed since March for repairs after apparent vandalism (can you credit it?), but CapeNature reservations staff had been adamant that Shamrock hut was open again. The staff at Nuweberg, the responsible CapeNature station and start of the hike, however were equally adamant that it was not. After some ‘phone calls and animated discussions, we were on our way. Although the gradient is relentlessly uphill, the average slope is only 8.9% and the hiker is rewarded with fine views of the Groenland mountains and the Grabouw plateau.

Prone Pedro at Shamrock hut

Shamrock hut was in good condition, although the repair contractors had left a fine mess around the hut which we endeavoured to clean up as best we could. Evidently, not everybody is impressed with World Heritage Site status.

Boland Trail Day 1 Profile: Nuweberg to Landdroskop

Day 2: Landdroskop to Boesmanskloof

This is the longest day of the three at about 16.1 km (the maps say 17.6 km but my GPS was adamant). As the trail winds down from Landdroskop (“magistrate’s hill”) the Riviersonderend Gorge (“river without end”) opens up before you. Massive wildfires swept through these parts in 2009 but the veld is recovering beautifully, as you can see from the photos. All day the vistas are majestic. There are excellent swimming pools at regular intervals in the middle section from Boegoekloof to Noordekloof, where you can lie in the pools and drink the water simultaneously. The only potentially tiring bit is the climb up Noordekloof from about km 9 to Pofaddernek (“puff adder saddle”), which although not steep is steady and can be hot work in the afternoon sun.

Boegoekloof

The more adventurous can jump and swim down Suicide Gorge to exit near Nuweberg and we came across a group of young guys doing this as we skirted the top of the gorge. Be warned however: the jumps are very high and the water is cold.

From Pofaddernek the view east down Bobbejaankloof to Boesmanskloof is something to behold. Spend some time here. The stony path zig-zags down the hot aspect of a ridge where unfortunately some hikers have seen fit to cut short-cuts that have eroded badly with time. The zig-zag section is known as Tandseer (“toothache”), which seems to be quite apt although I’m not sure why.

Bobbejaanskloof and Boesmanskloof

The Boesmanskloof hut is in good nick and beautifully situated for views across the Theewaterskloof (“tea waters gorge” – so named after the colour of the water in the mountain streams) dam.

Theewaterskloof dam

Boland Trail Day 2 Profile: Landdroskop to Boesmanskloof

Day 3: Boesmanskloof to Nuweberg

As is its wont in these parts, the weather changes rapidly and we woke to a strong northerly wind and the imminent threat of rain. As we had prepared and watched the long-range forecasts carefully, we were ready to start early and make it back to Nuweberg before the front proper hit. Fortunately, the walk back was in the lee of the mountains and it only really began spitting as we trudged into Nuweberg. Back in Stellenbosch it was already bucketing down.

Rain's coming

Boland Trail Day 3 Profile: Boesmanskloof to Nuweberg

Note that the vertical scale of the Day 3 profile differs markedly from the other days’ profiles – it is in fact very level with a steep climb at the very end.

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Peter’s account and his photos.

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Jonkershoek Panorama Route

Ralph — Sun, 02 Oct 2011 18:02:43 +0000

The Panorama Route is one of the Jonkershoek valley’s classic day trails. From the bridge (Witbrug) at the apex of the circular road, where you climb the left side of the valley, to where you descend to the Swartboskloof parking area, you will walk about 17.1 km, climb through 1665 m (maximum elevation is 1267m) and descend through1703 m.

Take the best part of a day to walk it. Along the way you will be rewarded with a view down the spectacular Assegaaiboschkloof towards Franschhoek, panoramic views of the Jonkershoek valley as you traverse the edge of the Dwarsberg plateau, and finally a grandstand seat as the Helderberg bowl and False Bay unfold way down below. A Google Earth Track, the trail profile and some photos follow.

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All along the contour

Second Waterfall

Bergriviersnek in the mist

Approaching Boegoekloof - Kurktrekker junction

MCSA above Diepgat - Strand and False Bay below

More photos

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Cape Point’s east coast

Ralph — Mon, 29 Aug 2011 18:41:32 +0000

The 13 km walk down Cape Point’s east coast from the gate to the restaurant at the point is possibly the most scenically spectacular hike in the country. Besides the vistas across False Bay, the precipitous drops to the rocky coast below and the way the peninsula unfolds as one skirts Judas Peak or Die Boer, the weather can be very diverse too – wild and windy or tranquil and impossibly blue on any given day.

A Google Earth track and photos follow …

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Or download the Google Earth track and view in Google Earth (the track also includes the west coast trail)

Da Gama monument

Classic kombi camper

Rooikrantz ("red cliff")

Pirate of the Cape

On the edge

Lighthouse

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Scherpenheuwel circuit, Franschhoek

Ralph — Thu, 18 Aug 2011 20:48:01 +0000

The Mountain Club’s plan was to head up to Perdekop in the hope that, it being midwinter, there would be snow on the peak. Instead an unseasonal black south-easter raged, clouding in all the peaks around Franschhoek. So, plan B was activated. It amounted to a very pleasant 13.5km circuit of Scherpenheuwel, which is one of small peaks in the valley. Scherpenheuwel separates the town from Assegaaiboschkloof and the new Berg River Dam and offers some unusual views of the Franschhoek valley. An easy and pleasant walk.

Robertsvlei and Berg River Dam panorama

3D Google Earth track and more photos follow …

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Swiss Farm Excelsior

Centre Peak from Keerwedernek

Assegaaiboschkloof

Roberstvlei and Berg River entering dam

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La Motte to Franschhoek Pass traverse

Ralph — Mon, 23 May 2011 19:37:18 +0000

In typical MCSA Stellenbosch style: a couple of koppies (little hills) on this uitstappie (outing). The numbers tell the story:

12.25 km
maximum slope: 58.2%
minimum elevation: 240 m; maximum elevation: 1405 m
elevation gain: 1472 m; elevation loss: 1008 m
moving average speed: 2.2 km/h (this number is a clue that it was pretty tough going).

The party of 19 enjoyed really spectacular views though in a section of the mountains south of Wemmershoek that I have never been to. We hiked from near the La Motte wine estate, over Suikerboskop and Du Toitskop to Mont Rochelle Nature Reserve and the pass. Mont Rochelle is familiar however, as the VWS fought a fire there a couple of months ago (the chopper LZ’s are shown on the Google Earth map) and it was good to see that the fireline we fought so hard to secure, held.

Hike profile. Note that the first 1.65km (and 240m to 394m elevation) of the hike is not included.

Our slow progress is largely explained by the fact that the first part of the hike, from La Motte up to Du Toitskop, features no paths to speak of. Any trails that exist occur in the Mont Rochelle reserve from the pass up to Du Toitskop and to the Wemmershoek lookout point – and these well-marked circular trails are what the weekend hiker should enjoy (permits are obtainable from the Franschhoek tourism office).

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The fynbos is fairly young here, about 3 to 5 year-old veld I would guess, but north of Suikerboskop, there is serious infestation by Hakea sericea, an invasive weed. To my untrained eye it looks as if a weevil is attacking the fruit – biological control. But there are a lot of young trees growing in this area. The suikerbos is waist high at the moment, so the hakea is accessible if you’re interested in alien hacking, but in a couple of seasons time they will be difficult to spot in the thick bush. The area of infestation is marked on the map.

Drakenstein, Table Mountain and Simonsberg

The lords of the mountains over the lords of the manors

We encountered two troops of baboons, one below Suikerboskop and the other on the way up to Du Toitskop. The latter troop unusually allowed us to thread our way up the slope between them, one group on the left comprising a male perched on a rock and another few in a lone pine; the other group on the right watching us silently from a rocky ridge only tens of metres away. No barks, no calls, just quizzical looks and stony silence.

Franschhoek panorama

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Franschhoek to Jonkershoek via Assegaaiboschkloof

Ralph — Sun, 17 Apr 2011 13:05:40 +0000

Assegaaiboschkloof looking east on a clear day

The mountain club’s plan was to walk from Franschhoek to Jonkershoek along the watershed via Emerald Dome and Victoria Peak. We would ascend Fortsnek and cross Noordkloofpiek, the scene of last year’s firefighting. It promised to be a long, hard, but spectacular, day. But an unseasonal south-easter raged through the night and clouded in the peaks, so we decided to follow the upper Berg River above the dam, up Assegaaiboschkloof to Bergriviersnek. The path has been recently maintained and is in excellent condition, except for the lower section which scramblers have obviously been using. A Google Earth track and photos follow …

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3D map of Assegaaibosch route. Alternatively, download the kmz file and view in Google Earth.

Assegaaiboschkloof - view to Bergriviersnek

As we breasted Bergriviersnek, we spotted smoke beyond the next range, obviously on the Helderberg. Within minutes it became a massive, mushrooming cloud. Soon the fire alert pinged on our ‘phones, scrambling the VWS standby crew. That fire would raze a number of houses and a hotel on Helderberg’s slopes.

Approaching Bergriviersnek, the source of the Berg River

21.9 kms after starting out we trudged into the tearoom at Jonkershoek’s gate and sank a well-earned ale.

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Slanghoek Peak via Witte River

Ralph — Wed, 19 Jan 2011 19:56:58 +0000

The route to Slanghoek Peak curves south and east up the Witte River valley.

Slanghoek from Slanghoek Peak

A fairly level and scenic walk from the car park at Eerste Tol on Bainskloof Pass of 12.5 km to a saddle below Slanghoek on Mountain Club property, known as Springstygbeugel¹, almost traverses the Limietberg range from west to east. The MCSA party of which I was part camped on the saddle on Saturday night. We tackled the ascent early the next morning in cool but sunny conditions, and later returned to the car park after a round trip of 29.7km (including a few detours). The hike goes through an elevation of about 1100m and rewards you with cool pools and stunning vistas. A Google Earth track of the hike and photos follow.

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If the 3D map and track above doesn’t work for you, download the kmz file and view in Google Earth.

From Slanghoek Peak we could see the smoke from the Du Toitskloof wildfire which the VWS crews had been fighting during the week, as well as a flare up below the peak. Soon after we left the peak an SMS calling a crew out to Slanghoek buzzed on my iphone. So I was almost “on the fireline”, but useless… On some of the photos below the smoke and haze from the fires can clearly be seen.

Bainskloof and the Witte River are rich in historical stories. One such story² was related to us by a hiking club member who we met early on in the hike, a story about the “spookhuis”, Wolkerus, and how it came to be built by one Mr Hugo of Wellington, a jam magnate, and acquired notoriety in the ’70s (see waypoint for “Wolkerus” on the 3D map). The quote below comes from this excellent resource about Wolkerus:

Wolkerus 1941 2

Anyway, Mr Hugo developed this notion to build a house in the mountains of Bainskloof. He had this road built that you are walking on and built the house in the 1940’s, complete with swimming pool. Unsurprisingly his wife refused to go and live there. Mr Hugo died before he could move into his house and so the house stood empty for 8 years until it burnt down in a veld fire in 1949. Mr Hugo must have died a sad man. I can clearly remember as a child the “spookhuis” (Ghost house) standing there hauntingly high up in the mountains. Only some walls and the gable ends were still standing at the time. You can imagine what spooky images were conjured up in a child’s mind. Sadly an escaped convict murdered two hikers there in 1978 and the ruins were demolished to the foundations, so all that is left is what you see today.

According to Coen Calitz, writing in the MCSA Stellenbosch Section’s newsletter no. 262, spring 2010, Springstygbeugel is so named because farm labourers from Worcester who used the route to visit friends and family in Wellington, required a stirrup (“stiebeugel”) suspended on a leather thong (“riem”) to swing across a particular crack. Furthermore, to reach the thong, they had to jump (“spring”). Hence, “springstygbeugel” …
From the booklet Bainskloof en ander bergstories, compiled by Winnie Rust.

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All along the watershed – Saaltjie to Botmaskop

Ralph — Tue, 30 Nov 2010 20:38:56 +0000

Twin Peaks

Last Sunday I hosted some of the Patagons and other hiking buddies at Jonkershoek for a day hike – “not too long, too high and too hard” was the request.

So I thought it would be nice to follow the eastern watershed from north of Twin Peaks to Botmaskop – not too high nor too far. I did, however, add a disclaimer: I had not walked all of that route before. The evening before I even decided to shorten it and take the jeep track up to Saaltjie instead of up Nerina Kloof. Just as well. The walk came in at 12.7 km. In fact, beyond Saaltjie it ceased to be a “walk” and a bit of a bundu bash as there’s no footpath along the ridge. Luckily the veld had burnt 18 months ago, or else the going would have been an order of magnitude tougher. And the veld was beautiful with colourful new growth. So were the views of the Drakenstein Valley to the east and Jonkerhoek to our west.

Well worth it, I thought. But that’s just me …. Photos, a Google Earth track and a profile follow…

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Our route commenced from the Jonkershoek Nature Reserve gate, followed the Yellowwood Trail and forestry roads up to Saaltjie, then followed the watershed to Botmaskop, from where we descended through plantations to my place in Rozendal.

My photos

Profile of the walk – excludes the first km.

Kelson‘s photos

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Hiking Oorlogskloof’s Rock Pigeon Trail

Ralph — Thu, 04 Nov 2010 20:05:38 +0000

Also known as “Wessel Reloaded”

5 days, 52.2 km (55.1 km according to my GPS recording), 18 hrs 27 min moving time at a moving average speed of 3 km/h

Yet another tunnel

We all agreed afterwards that Oorlogskloof is probably the best hike in South Africa – mainly because of the care and attention-to-detail that went into designing the route to ensure a variety of experiences in a diversity of landscapes. “We” were Kelson and Elena, Scarborough-based South Americans with extensive trekking experience both in Africa and in South America, Paul (Trailmaster Watty) who has hiked widely in South Africa especially in the Drakensberg, and myself. Between us we have done our fair share of trails and we came to this conclusion after thoughtful discussion.

Why “Wessel Reloaded”? Well, it was my second hike in Oorlogskloof (the first time was a decade ago with erstwhile hiking partner, Peter, who wrote an amusing account called “The scourge of Wessel“) and secondly, we assume that the reserve manager, Wessel Pretorius, had a major hand in designing the trail. He must know the place like the back of his hand, judging by the nooks and crannies, chimneys and cracks that the path takes one up, down, to and through. If Wessel is indeed the trail designer, then you both curse and admire him as you puff and sweat your way through the obstacles – challenges that Paul dubbed “wesselismes” in his pidgin-Afrikaans.

So – it’s not your average trail. Neither is it one that should be attempted by hiking novices, unless they’re young or fit (ja, I realise the former does not guarantee the latter these days). Water can be a problem in the summer months. October this year was perfect as the veld had bloomed and there was more than enough water at most of the watering points indicated on the trail’s excellent maps.

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The Rock Pigeon route features four camps comprising five dome tents each. Each tent comes with three foam mattresses – so that saves you from carrying tents and mats and also makes for uncommonly comfortable hiking accommodation. The degree of difficulty and daily distances gradually escalate, peaking on days 3 and 4 – by which time you have hopefully acclimatised and grown into your pack – and eaten through some of the weight.

Day 1: Groot Tuin to Brakwater – 4 km (4.53 km according to my GPS, although we blundered about

Rock art

a bit at Groot Tuin after taking a wrong turn). It took us 2-and-a-quarter hours and the section gives you just a little foretaste of the obstacles to come. A highlight for me was the verdant wild olive and yellowwood grove in Saaikloof.

Day 2: Brakwater to Driefontein – 8.5 km (10.1 km according to me, although I don’t think Wessel will be inclined to move his cute clay km-markers). The going gets tougher, taking you up to the canyon rim, down to the Oorlogskloof River – which had plenty of water – and up to Driefontein camp on the rim via a rock tunnel behind a waterfall. The waterfall in question was a mere dribble this time, probably because the poplars along the stream up at Driefontein have spread and are sucking the water up before it plunges over the precipice.

Day 3: Driefontein to Doltuin – 12 km (13.5 km according to my GPS). Down to the river again, the crossing of which could be a challenge in winter, judging by the jury-rigged “bridge”. Then up the opposite slope in the morning sun, past a poignant little cemetery containing unmarked graves – what looks like two adults and a child. Not much is known about the people that settled here for a while, except that some sought refuge and eked out a living in the depression years (1929 -1934). The infamous chimney up to the plateau now boasts shiny chains instead of ropes and it somehow looks different to what I remember. The walk along the boundary of the reserve across sandstone flats and plains of protea stands can be hot work – and it was. Doltuin, near the head of a side kloof, appears like an oasis with its stone dam. Last time I only heard the wild donkeys; this time we saw them. They look fat and well.

Arrie and the gang

Day 4: Doltuin to Pramkoppie – 17 km (16.5 km). Things get spectacular as you approach and skirt the escarpment edge above Knersvlakte. I highly recommend taking the 2.6 km detour to Arrie se Punt, the highest point on the trail at 915 m. Arrie and his troop were in vocal attendance the whole time and seemed to be curious rather than miffed at our encroachment on their territory. Wessel also ensures that you will negotiate ten (10) rock arches on this long day. The fairly steep descent around Pramkoppie reveals a cool, welcoming camp under wild olive near a stream. Pramkoppie was probably named by some long-deprived trekboer, because the resemblance is but passing.

Day 5: Pramkoppie to Groot Tuin – 10.7 km (10.5 km). Unlike the last time, when we slogged it back to Groot Tuin across the hot plateau, we took the Klein Heiveld Trail east along Rietvlei River’s kloof rim. At one point Groot Tuin is visible across dead ground, only 2.5 km away as the crow flies, but we know that Wessel still has another 6 km in mind. And when we get to Spelonkop (clearly something to do with spelunking) those extra k’s become eventful as Wessel takes us through crawlways and cracks that have us sucking our guts in, squeezing and leopard-crawling. In the euphemistic language of the brochure “the section that follows is quite taxing”. Indeed.

And so we got back to the vehicle, tired and smelly, but fulfilled. Our only regret was that the excellent Smidswinkel restaurant in Nieuwoudtville was closed – it being Sunday. Go figure. The dream of their tasty bobotie and ice-cold Windhoek lager, that had kept us going evaporated in the midday heat.

More photos from Kelson

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