ralphpina.com » Kruger National Park

Mapping Africa’s parks

Ralph — Wed, 28 Oct 2009 20:17:41 +0000

Here’s a worthy project – the MAPA Project. It intends mapping more than a thousand of Africa’s protected areas on Google Earth in the interests of biodiversity conservation. The first Google Earth layer has just appeared and can be downloaded from the Google Earth Outreach Showcase. MAPA is driven by March Turnbull, an environmental journalist, and Stellenbosch-based company, Tracks4Africa.

It is interesting to reflect that when I was at ecoAfrica.com, another Stellenbosch-based ecotourism company, we launched a Google Earth layer for the Kruger National Park (2MB .kmz file; requires Google Earth) in early 2008, in the context of the Great Limpopo Transfrontier Park. All the information was gleaned from publicly available sources. I am still very proud of that layer (I hope the guys are still maintaining it) and I am excited to see that MAPA is making what was then a vague vision of ours too, happen.

Our layer included:

Lodges, camps, restcamps and trails camps
Transport: roads, distances, routes, gates, airstrips
Ecology: rainfall, biomes, wildlife census – all graphically represented
History: how Kruger evolved and its borders expanded since 1884
National park, transfrontier park and game reserve boundaries

Travel layer: lodge and camp locations

Travel layer: game lodge information

Ecological layer: animal census

Ecological layer: biomes

Transport layer: roads, gates , airstrips, routes, distances

Kruger Park and climate change

Ralph — Sat, 02 Aug 2008 19:44:20 +0000

The IPCC’s technical paper on Climate Change and Water (pdf), published in June, features some dire numbers for South Africa’s premier national park, the Kruger National Park. Should the global mean temperature exceed 1990 levels by 2.5 to 3 ^oC, then 66% of its animal species may be lost. Similary, the Cape’s fynbos biome, a biodiversity hotspot, large tracts of which were recently declared a World Heritage Site, is projected to shrink by up to 61%. It is almost beyond my ability to imagine destruction of biodiversity on such a scale in places that I know well and are part of who I am.

So it is with anger that I witnessed the G8 powers’ leaders back away from substantive and immediate reductions in their countries’ emissions and vaguely promise halving of emissions by 2050. Halving with reference to what baseline? 2008 and not 1990? What about intermediate emissions targets? What happened to some of these countries’ undertakings under Kyoto? A spectacle of spinelessness.

Not that China and my own South Africa can simply claim the moral high ground and point accusing fingers at the rich nations. South Africa is one of the most carbon-intensive economies in the world, and China’s aggregate emissions are already approaching those of the USA, albeit on a much lower per capita basis.

But others are able to express outrage and apply pressure better than me. What interests me is the static nature of protected areas (PAs) like the Kruger Park in the face of changing climatic conditions. Protected areas are human creations and like human settlements their locations have been determined by our experience of relatively stable and benign climate conditions over the last millennia, but mainly the last 500 or so years.

In fact many PAs are what and where they are because the areas were less attractive and habitable for humans, more specifically colonial humans. They are opportunistic creations. The lowveld plain east of the escarpment where Kruger is located was a fever-ridden area for the boers at the time (the late 19th century) that the reserves that would make up the park were proclaimed. Modern-day Kruger is a north-south oriented, 300km-by-60 km sliver of land (see ecoAfrica’s Kruger Park layer in Google Earth for a spatial exploration) jammed between the escarpment and Mozambique. Although relatively large, its ecosystems and wildlife populations are artificially managed – man-made waterholes and fences determine the distribution and movements of wildlife.

Species have always migrated as climate has changed over the millennia, but neither national park boundaries nor national borders will be able to move. They are locked in. That is one problem; another is that climate may be changing faster than species can adapt. There is a further problem too: patterns of human settlement and land transformation have limited the options for natural systems. It is only fairly recently that conservation priorities have shifted away from conserving species and landscapes to protecting the integrity of ecosystem processes that ensure that Nature has options so that species can adapt. Re-establishing migration routes and ecosystem functioning are some of the rationales behind transfrontier parks such as the Great Limpopo Transfrontier Park that comprises Kruger, Limpopo and Gonarezhou national parks.

It is predicted that as temperatures rise and rainfall decreases in the Cape, so fynbos plant species will migrate south-eastwards – that is if there are corridors for them to migrate along. Let us for a moment imagine a similar scenario for the vegetation in Kruger, where it migrates eastwards into Mozambique, into its mirror-image park, Limpopo National Park, and beyond. When the fences are eventually down, the herbivores will follow their food and the predators will as well, but Kruger’s tourism infrastructure and its restcamps won’t be able to cross the border. In fact it is highly unlikely that South Africa’s tourism and parks authorities would be pleased about ceding their tourism income to Mozambique. Rather, artificial interventions to retain species within Kruger might be intensified. [Note: this is not a scientific, real scenario, but a thought experiment]

We have fixed cities, parks and borders in space, but the elements and conditions that support life – biodiversity, ecosystems, biomes, climate – are not fixed in space, never have been and never will be.

Originally published on ecoAfrica’s Blog

Machampane Wilderness Trail

Ralph — Sun, 30 Sep 2007 19:50:43 +0000

Limpopo National Park, Mozambique: September 2007

Circles in the Bush

(With apologies to Dalene Matthee…)

Machampane Wilderness Camp shares the western bank of the Machampane River with tall fever trees at a pool called Xisivene – which apparently means “deep pool”.

The wilderness trail experience that runs out of the camp is similarly structured to the iconic trails that operate in the Kruger National Park across the border. Machampane’s accommodation is a tad more luxurious though – large walk-in tents on stilts with en suite bathrooms.

or download the Google Earth track of Machampane wilderness trails.

As in Kruger, a day typically starts with tea or coffee at the crack of dawn, followed by a 3 to 5 hour wilderness walk in the surrounding bush. Upon your return to camp, tuck into a wholesome brunch, and then spend the rest of the afternoon relaxing on your tent’s deck watching the Pied Kingfisher launch numerous dive attacks on the fish in Xisivene, or read, or snooze…

After tea, set out on another 3-hour walk and return to a warm shower and good company around the “bush TV” – the fire pit – followed by dinner. By the second day you will have succumbed to the rhythm of the bush and forgotten about civilisation. The fact that Machampane is remote and there are no telephones nor internet simply helps the process.

www.flickr.com

The wilderness walks radiate out from the camp in large circles (see the tracks on Google Earth). There’s a fair amount of water around Machampane and the surrounding country varies from mopane woodland on Lebombo rhyolite to sandveld which supports taller mopane.

www.flickr.com

The trail is about reconnecting with nature, observing and existing within the web of life. As I have often written, wilderness trails are not about viewing big game. Having said that though, we did see elephant, lion, civet, honeybadger, lots of impala, zebra, wildebeest, spotted hyena, crocodiles and the area’s solitary hippo – Bob – while on foot.

The Machampane concession comprises a large wilderness area that borders Kruger Park to the west and extends down to Lake Massangir on the Olifants River. A fence still separates Limpopo, which was until fairly recently a hunting concession, and Kruger and over the last few years relocated wildlife have been released into a sanctuary area here, the fences of which are still visible south of the camp. Near the lake, but within the park, local Shangaan eke out a subsistence living on the land. Apparently the people will be relocated at some future stage.

www.flickr.com

A Kruger safari

Ralph — Fri, 23 Dec 2005 18:01:10 +0000

December 2005: Marion and I drove in at Pafuri, stayed at Pafuri Camp and then drove all the way from north to south to exit at Malelane, enjoying Rhino Walking Safaris – one of our favourite safari products – along the way…

Book here:

Sweni Wilderness Trail

Ralph — Thu, 24 Jul 2003 18:38:44 +0000

Eastern Kruger Park: 13 to 16 July 2003

Sweni trails camp gate

The Sweni is one of the most sought-after wilderness trails in Kruger, primarily because of the likelihood of running into the Sweni lions. According to James, the trails ranger, Sweni has the highest concentration of lion per sq km in Africa (i.e. the world). So when I got the chance to book all 8 beds, I took it – and took my whole family and some of my in-laws. FAQ

We renewed acquaintances with old trail friends: James Steyn (with whom we walked the Napi), Kallie Ubisi (formerly of Wolhuter), and James Mathebula (who cooked on Wolhuter). The next morning we tried to track the lions we had been hearing since 3am. We got very close, hearing the calls and growls of at least 2 groups, to left and right, as we snaked into the misty savannah. But the mist defeated us as we followed their fresh spoor, stretching away from us to the south. Snacks on Bravo Koppie.

The ultimate afternoon walk! A pride of lions finishing off the last of last night’s giraffe kill, took flight as we approached on foot. The females are massive cats. Vultures and about 8 jackals descended on the skeleton, picking it clean in efficient silence. Behind us about 8 hyaena loped tentatively closer, sniffing the breeze. They would approach the carcass passing within metres of us and ignoring us as if we weren’t

Sweni walk at sunrise in the mist

there, then would back off as they smelled the pride disappearing rapidly upwind. Then they finally moved in, each one claiming a portion of skeleton: a backbone here, a femur there; two spent time dismantling the ribcage. All this in absolute silence while we watched from about 75 m away. Vultures, jackals and hyaena operating as a team of sanitation workers – no fuss, no wasted effort. “This is what makes Sweni special”, whispered James, referring to the rare opportunity to watch lions on a kill while on foot. As we left scene the riverine bush was alive with nervous wildlife.

On the Louis Trichardt road one evening a young female elephant charged us as we drove to the cliffs for sundowners. Accompanied by two other young females and a baby, she kept coming as we managed to get the vehicle past her. The others and the baby joined in, chasing us up the road with much trumpeting and bravado. The funny part was the baby’s eventual enthusiastic participation in the rout, trunk and tail extended for and aft, and its shrill, adolescent trumpeting. But that mommy elly meant business….

Metsi-Metsi Wilderness Trail

Ralph — Wed, 10 Jul 2002 17:40:02 +0000

Eastern Kruger Park: 3 to 6 July 2002

Metsi-Metsi trails camp – it apparently means “water water” in Sotho – is located 6 km from the Mozambique border in rhyolite bushveld on the eastern aspect of N’wamuriwa mountain.

Day 1: Led by Rudi & Abel, the rangers, this day started with a

sunset at Silolweni

leisurely 8km ramble across the ridges south-east of the camp. The weather was pleasantly warm with the touch of a cool breeze. We enjoyed breakfast on the N’waswitsontso River. Our path crossed a loping herd of giraffe, including three juveniles, at fairly close range. Our group, all women except for me and the rangers, is easy-going and good company. No testosterone in sight – “rustig”. A quaint Metsi-Metsi initiation ritual involved spitting impala dung pellets across a line drawn in the sand by the ranger. If someone had suggested that I would put dung of any description in my mouth, I would have called them “bossies” – but I did…

Ernest, the camp cook, had prepared an excellent lunch back in camp – scrambled eggs, toast, baked beans, sweet corn, bacon, mashed potato. Of course with few males in camp there’s plenty to go around.
That afternoon the walk on western side of N’wamuriwa along the Nwaswitsontso River was memorable. We played hide-and-seek in the riverbed with herds of kudu ewes, giraffe and two bull elephants. Sundowners at Silolweni dam followed, where we were serenaded by pods of hippo, about 15 of whom were within 20m of us, and whose supper had been delayed by our presence.

Day 2: What a morning walk! We drove north to the northern reaches of the Metsi-Metsi near Lindinda Dam, and set off into a breezy north-easter. First we happened upon a breeding herd of elephant, then a lone white rhino cow who was aware of our presence but was caught between curiosity and fear,

Metsi-Metsi hut

and then – a first for me – a black rhino! We got to within 100m of it and took care to stay downwind. It was unaware of us, which is just as well as these animals don’t keep their distance once they’ve rumbled you.

Thinking that we had been especially blessed, we then spotted that rarest of cats, a cheetah, about 150m off to our left in the shade of a tree. It got to its feet and strolled parallel to our path and melted into the bush. Seeing cheetah (there are only about 200 in the 19000ha of Kruger) is rare, but meeting one while on foot is truly unusual. This event took place within tens of metres of the Wolhuter memorial, where the legendary Harry Wolhuter survived a lion attack, killing it with his knife while it was dragging him off.

One tends to focus on the big mammals, but in between we had been introduced to bag-worm nests, the uses of the magic gwarri tree, lizard eggs, the spongy praying mantis nest, the climate control and fungus gardens of the termite mound, and

Evening walk at Orpen dam

much more. My fifth wilderness trail has only served to confirm that these trails are the only way to truly experience the bush.

Wilderness Trail FAQ

Napi Wilderness Trail

Ralph — Wed, 28 Mar 2001 18:58:05 +0000

Southern Kruger Park: 25 to 28 March 2001

Once again Marion and I were privileged to participate in a wilderness trail (FAQ), this time the Napi Trail midway between Pretoriuskop and Skukuza. Napi was the newest of Kruger’s seven wilderness trails and its location at the confluence of the Napi and Mbiyamiti rivers was surely one of the most spectacular of all trails camps (unfortunately the camp was recently destroyed by fire). Perched high up on the bank of the Napi under rich riverine forest, the camp commanded wonderful views of the rivers. Our hut clung precariously, it seemed, to the sand cliff that had been undermined by last year’s floods. Steady rain on our last night in camp made the Napi gurgle far below our veranda, but the hut anchors were secure.

The undulating woodlands were green and luxuriant after the summer rains, and the grass long, making game sightings difficult. But as any trail junky will tell you, game viewing is not the purpose of the wilderness trail – it’s only a bonus. Just prior to the trail we had a stayed at a game lodge in a neighbouring reserve where seeing the Big Five is what is promised, and is consequently, what the guests have come to expect. And although we had wonderful leopard and lion sightings at the game lodge, it was somehow less satisfying than walking in wild bushveld, seeing fresh lion tracks, hearing them in the distance, knowing that they were probably watching us from the cover of long grass. On foot one confronts your own insignificance, your own vulnerability.

Besides the many white rhino we saw, we did see one significant antelope: the Liechtenstein’s hartebeest. Locally extinct for decades, some were recently re-introduced from Malawi. This one was limping and separated from the herd, his days numbered.

Once again I had the opportunity to polish my knowledge of bushveld trees, add the buffalo thorn to the list as well as the Zulu story about it being “the tree of life”, learn about sodic sites and how they form, etc., thanks to the knowledge of our trails rangers.

Long may Kruger’s wilderness trails renew our bonds with Nature.

(Note: this camp has since burnt down and is located elsewhere now)

Ralph’s Wilderness Trail FAQ

Ralph — Wed, 22 Mar 2000 16:57:35 +0000

Many people from all over the globe email me about what to expect on a “wilderness trail” in the context of Kruger National Park (note that in this context I am not referring to a wilderness hike in a wilderness area such as Cederberg). So here’s a collection of responses to these questions. I am no expert, but have been on most of Kruger’s seven trails, some of them more than once. In my opinion, a “wilderness trail” is the best way to experience the African bush – bar none.

What is a “wilderness trail?
The “wilderness trail” is a concept unique to Africa in that it has evolved to imply a walk in the company of a game ranger or conservation officer, usually armed, through big game country. Aspects of the ecology of the area, environmental management and ethics are also explained and the emphasis is often on environmental education.

Kruger National Park has seven such trails, comprising seven trails camps each located in large wilderness areas (60000 ha plus), remote from cars, roads, camps and people. Each camp accommodates 8 guests who spend 3 nights at the camps. The camps are staffed by the trails ranger, the assistant (or “second rifle”) and a camp cook. A trail involves two days of walking. Kruger’s trails are: Sweni, Olifants, Wolhuter, Bushmans, Nyalaland, Napi and Metsi-Metsi.

Wilderness Trails in this form originated at Imfolozi Game Reserve, I believe.

Are wilderness trails dangerous?
All wilderness trails are potentially dangerous because you are on foot with wild animals. However, animals are usually more scared of humans and are only dangerous when cornered or surprised, or when protecting young. The trails rangers are extremely safety-conscious and will ensure that you are not put into dangerous situations. They are very cautious and always err on the side of safety. It is important to obey the rangers unquestioningly. I would say that the trails are exciting, rather than dangerous.

Is the walking difficult or strenuous?
The walks are not difficult. They are largely over flat ground and follow game paths. They are undertaken in the early morning and late afternoon, when it is cooler. The only discomfort

Napi hut, but at the old camp that burnt down

will be the heat, depending on the time of year. The rangers will pace the walks to suit the group, and if you find it hard, discuss it with the rangers. On a walk you could walk anything up to 10km, but it depends on conditions and the group. The emphasis is not on “hiking” as such, but rather on experiencing, feeling, hearing, and smelling the bush, while learning about the ecology.

Will I see the “Big 5″?
No!! Unless you’re very lucky. If you participate in a trail with the aim of seeing the Big 5 up close you are guaranteed to be disappointed. Get the Big 5, especially the cats, out of your system by going on game drives or lodge safaris before you tackle a trail. Then you can relax and enjoy the experience: feeling, hearing, and smelling the bush, while learning about the ecosystem; facing up to your own insignificance; being in the food chain. I promise that it can be one of the great experiences of a lifetime if you allow it to be.

What must I bring?
I would suggest some essentials (for summer conditions):

a large wide-brimmed sunhat
sun block
bush-coloured clothes that breathe well, but keep the sun off
at least two waterbottles each (drink a lot on the walks)
small binoculars
insect repellent
anti-insect mats or coils
reliable torches or headlamps, with spare batteries
comfortable walking shoes or boots
3-4 changes of walking socks
a soft bag – there isn’t much packing space in the huts.

The camps have a communal fridge, so take beers, wine and drinks for the evenings.

What about malaria?
Ensuring that you are not bitten is vital. The danger times are dusk and dawn, so keep skin covered especially at these times: long light trousers, socks, long sleeves, etc. Make sure that you have insect repellent and that you spray it on exposed skin. I would suggest that you also buy anti-insect coils or mats that burn through the night (note: there’s no electricity!). One should also take anti-malaria prophylactics before travel – many of us don’t, but get advice from a doctor. (also visit www.malaria.org)

How difficult is it to get a booking?
Very. The trails run at high occupancy and are a well-kept secret amongst those in the know. You may have to book up to a year in advance. If at first you don’t succeed…. Try here for a booking – ecoAfrica has been known to succeed.

What’s the weather like?
In summer, the days are very hot, and the nights will be warm too. Expect afternoon thundershowers. Of course, this is mosquito season too, so while there is the temptation to wear as little as possible in the evenings, you should rather cover up. Winters are dry and the days are pleasantly warm, while the nights will be nippy. If you’re not used to Africa’s heat, June to September is the time to visit. Game viewing is also better in winter because there’s less foliage, shorter grass and the game tend to converge on waterholes and rivers.

What are the trails camps like?
The camps are rustic and basic and the fence is not animal-proof (rather to keep the people in than the animals out, as the trails ranger will tell you), but you will seldom find animals visiting an area that smells of humans.

Each camp has 4 huts, each with two beds. Space is limited so leave the large

Sweni lapa

luggage at home or elsewhere. The huts do have doors, as well as mesh-covered windows and mosquito nets hang above the beds. The huts are also raised off the ground, so you should not have problems with mice or insects or snakes. Bedding is provided, and you won’t even be required to make your bed (the camp cook will take care of that)!

The toilets (flush toilets) and showers (gas-heated) are separate from the huts and are communal, and there is no electricity, but lots of paraffin lanterns.

Camp life revolves around the lapa – where a boiling kettle, tea and coffee are always available – and the fire-pit. Meals are served at the lapa twice-a-day: a brunch after return from the morning walk, and dinner under the stars. The cooking is basic, but filling and tasty – good, simple bush cuisine.

What is a typical day’s routine?
Everything but routine. But it goes more or less like this:

you’ll be woken up by the camp cook before sunrise.
over coffee and rusks the trails ranger will give a safety briefing
leave camp on the morning walk at sunrise
stop in the bush for a light breakfast (snacks, fruit, dried fruit, nuts, juice, meats), usually on a hill
return to camp in the late morning for brunch
siesta until the late afternoon (lots of time to read, wander around the camp, watch birds, sleep, etc.)
leave on a walk until sunset, often stopping at some viewpoint to watch the African sun die
return for a shower and supper around the campfire (there usually are interesting people on such trails)
listen to the nocturnal sounds and sleep.

Literally walking in the Mlambane

Wolhuter Wilderness Trail

Ralph — Sat, 04 Mar 2000 16:23:52 +0000

Southern Kruger Park: 1 to 4 March 2000

The “wilderness trail” is a concept unique to Africa in that it has evolved to imply a walk in the company of a game ranger or conservation officer, usually armed, through big game country. Aspects of the ecology of the area, environmental management and ethics are also explained and the emphasis is often on environmental education. FAQ

The Wolhuter Wilderness Trail is the oldest in the park, established in 1978 in the area frequented by the legendary rangers, Harry and Henry Wolhuter. The trail camp lies about 10 km north-west of Berg-en-dal restcamp, in the transition zone between the mixed bushwillow woodlands and the Malelane mountain bushveld – white rhino country. And did we bump into a few of them…

Jan and San rock art

On the rough drive to the camp on the Wednesday evening, we spotted lion, an elephant bull in musth and two white rhino, all at very close range. It seems that because no humans had been on these roads since the rains and floods, the animals had reclaimed the area. Ours was the only trail running in the park, and the first since the floods, thanks to the passion and determination of our trail ranger, Jan Erasmus. He was worried because heavy cloud predominated, and the last group had to be lifted out by helicopter as the waters flowed through the camp. The bosses were going to have none of that again.

Thursday 2 March
Usually the morning walk commences before sunrise, but drizzle and distant thunder delayed our departure. The grass was long and wet and the bush more luxuriant than I had ever seen it. We wound up a granite koppie to perch on an outcrop for a light breakfast. From there the panorama of the bushveld and granite hills spread out below us. In the distance we spotted a herd of buffalo, black shapes amongst the trees of riverine forest. Later we would be surprised at all the animals we couldn’t spot from there, despite powerful binoculars. This area has one leopard to every 3 square km’s, the highest concentration in the park. Needless to say, we never saw one.

Marion and the hut

On the way down Jan showed us a cave adorned with clear San rock paintings, said to be two millennia old. We then set off to the north-east in order to intercept the buffalo. As we approached a stream, we heard a white rhino greeting behind us. Jan did the recce and then took us two-by-two to view a large, dominant bull wallowing in a pan, some 50m distant. Great care was taken about this, because their bad eyesight, but sharp hearing and sense of smell, makes them curious and bedonderd.

Wading the stream we blundered into a menagerie of zebra, blue wildebeest and impala, plus one more rhino, who trundled off at our approach. Jan was testing the wind by squirting ash from a small bottle, while Kally Ubisi, his Shangaan assistant scanned the bush with his incomparable vision. Later it became clear, however, that sign, smell, sound and interpretation of animal behaviour – and the hairs on the back of one’s neck I reckon – are more useful senses to the rangers – you have to become one with the bush.

The rangers were impressive, and their professionalism was best illustrated when we exited a stream, and Jan and Kally both suddenly swung their rifles to the right, and cocked, in perfect sync and in one fluid motion. Most of us hadn’t even heard the rustle of undergrowth, but it was a buffalo dagga bull, luckily crossing in the other direction. Exciting times.

But there was so much else to learn about the flora, the micro-fauna such as spiders and frogs, etc., etc., but my poor engineer’s brain couldn’t take it all in, let alone remember. Jan’s scientific and ecological knowledge is impressive to a layperson like me. Additionally, Sean and Carol, two other members of the group, are undergoing field guide training in their spare time, so they added to the mix. Carol’ s particular interest is grasses, Sean’s birds. “Wonderful!” enthused Elske, our German fellow traveller, on return to camp. It was.

Walking on the Mlambane

After James (Mathebula), the cook’s, tasty brunch and the usual siesta in the humid heat, we set out on a mission to stalk that herd of buffalo. We could hear them to our right, but our path was blocked by a phalanx of white rhino, it seemed. They appeared to be everywhere. Being downwind of them, one approached to within 20m of our position, strategically situated behind boulders and trees. Eventually, Jan had to indulge in a bit of arm-waving to persuade it to move off.

We had just crossed a stream separating us from the herd, and clambered out of the sandy ditch when we heard it stampede. With the ditch behind us, the unseen herd in front, fear rapidly rose in one’s throat as we all strained to determine the direction of movement. Being caught down-gallop and downwind of a herd of buffalo is not the preferred place to be. Luckily they thundered across our path about 100m distant. We tracked them for while, parallel to their path, always in visual contact now, but decided not to follow them into thick bush. We could only guess at what had spooked them. “Lion” surmised Jan.

Friday 3 March
Dawn found us on the banks of the Mlambane River (“the hungry river” according to Jan and Kally), contemplating

Literally walking in the Mlambane

the gap where the low-level bridge had been. Jan had been telling us the previous evening about how he loved to follow rivers, and the decision had been made. We would spend the morning on its banks, following its course east into the rising sun. I doubt whether we realised at that stage that we would be spending a lot of time in it. African rivers contain bilharzia, crocs and all manner of nasties, don’t they?

But this river was flowing swiftly, 50-75m wide, as pristine as it has ever been, according to Jan, because the floods had flushed it and it rose in the uninhabited Malelane mountains within the park borders. Nowhere was it more than knee-deep, mostly ankle-deep, with a sandy, gravely bottom. Its banks are lined with luxuriant riverine forest of jackalberry and massive figs, amongst other species I’d like to master.

We crossed and recrossed it, spotted two black rhino up on the bank, and came within a couple of metres of a young female bushbuck, frozen with curiosity. “Have you ever seen a buck frown before?” asked Jan. It had obviously never encountered humans before.

Where are the crocs?

But the real wonder of this day was the sense of wilderness: no humans for miles, the virgin banks scoured by the floods, only the footprints of animals, the only sounds those of the river, birds and insects.

The glare from the white sand made walking hot work, so we regularly lay in the stream, or bumslid down small rapids. Have you ever lay in a wild African river, contemplating the big sky, a fish eagle, a leaf accelerating down a small rapid? I have.

Chris and Elske, the retired German doctors, would write in the visitors book that this was one of “the best holidays” they had ever had. After this, my second wilderness trail in Kruger, I believe that it is the only way to truly experience the park, absorb the wilderness, be renewed.

On 7-10 June 2000, I was lucky enough to do the The Wolhuter Trail again. Read Peter Groves’ account of another memorable experience.

Nyalaland Wilderness Trail

Ralph — Thu, 22 Jul 1999 19:31:41 +0000

Northern Kruger Park: July 1999

The Nyalaland was our first Kruger wilderness trail (FAQ). It’s one of the less popular trails in Kruger, but it has a special place in our hearts. Some low-res photos follow…