This 3-day hike was like old times again – hiking with Peter Groves, my erstwhile hiking buddy who is out from the UK on holiday. Peter is also known as “Gaucho Pedro” after his escapades in Patagonia last year. The Hottentots Holland section of the Boland Trail is a circuit of some 40km through the heart of the rugged Hottentots Holland Nature Reserve, which is a key component of the Cape Floral Region protected areas that now enjoy UNESCO World Heritage Site status.

The World Heritage Site citation is clear about what makes this place special:

“The Cape Floral Region has been recognised as one of the most special places for plants—in terms of diversity, density and number of endemic species—in the world. Covering less than 0.5% of the area of Africa but home to nearly 20% of the continent’s flora, this extraordinary assemblage of plant life and its associated fauna is represented by a series of eight protected areas covering an area of 553,000 ha. These protected areas also conserve the outstanding ecological, biological and evolutionary processes associated with the beautiful and distinctive Fynbos vegetation, unique to the Cape Floral Region.”

A Google Earth track, track profiles and photos follow.

Day 1: Nuweberg to Landdroskop

We had an eventful start. I knew that the huts at Landdroskop had been closed since March for repairs after apparent vandalism (can you credit it?), but CapeNature reservations staff had been adamant that Shamrock hut was open again. The staff at Nuweberg, the responsible CapeNature station and start of the hike, however were equally adamant that it was not. After some ‘phone calls and animated discussions, we were on our way. Although the gradient is relentlessly uphill, the average slope is only 8.9% and the hiker is rewarded with fine views of the Groenland mountains and the Grabouw plateau.

Prone Pedro at Shamrock hut

Shamrock hut was in good condition, although the repair contractors had left a fine mess around the hut which we endeavoured to clean up as best we could. Evidently, not everybody is impressed with World Heritage Site status.

Boland Trail Day 1 Profile: Nuweberg to Landdroskop

 Day 2: Landdroskop to Boesmanskloof

This is the longest day of the three at about 16.1 km (the maps say 17.6 km but my GPS was adamant). As the trail winds down from Landdroskop (“magistrate’s hill”) the Riviersonderend Gorge (“river without end”) opens up before you. Massive wildfires swept through these parts in 2009 but the veld is recovering beautifully, as you can see from the photos. All day the vistas are majestic. There are excellent swimming pools at regular intervals in the middle section from Boegoekloof to Noordekloof, where you can lie in the pools and drink the water simultaneously. The only potentially tiring bit is the climb up Noordekloof from about km 9 to Pofaddernek (“puff adder saddle”), which although not steep is steady and can be hot work in the afternoon sun.

Boegoekloof

The more adventurous can jump and swim down Suicide Gorge to exit near Nuweberg and we came across a group of young guys doing this as we skirted the top of the gorge. Be warned however: the jumps are very high and the water is cold.

From Pofaddernek the view east down Bobbejaankloof to Boesmanskloof is something to behold. Spend some time here. The stony path zig-zags down the hot aspect of a ridge where unfortunately some hikers have seen fit to cut short-cuts that have  eroded badly with time. The zig-zag section is known as Tandseer (“toothache”), which seems to be quite apt although I’m not sure why.

Bobbejaanskloof and Boesmanskloof

The Boesmanskloof hut is in good nick and beautifully situated for views across the Theewaterskloof (“tea waters gorge” – so named after the colour of the water in the mountain streams) dam.

Theewaterskloof dam

Boland Trail Day 2 Profile: Landdroskop to Boesmanskloof

Day 3: Boesmanskloof to Nuweberg

As is its wont in these parts, the weather changes rapidly and we woke to a strong northerly wind and the imminent threat of rain. As we had prepared and watched the long-range forecasts carefully, we were ready to start early and make it back to Nuweberg before the front proper hit. Fortunately, the walk back was in the lee of the mountains and it only really began spitting as we trudged into Nuweberg. Back in Stellenbosch it was already bucketing down.

Rain's coming

Boland Trail Day 3 Profile: Boesmanskloof to Nuweberg

Note that the vertical scale of the Day 3 profile differs markedly from the other days’ profiles – it is in fact very level with a steep climb at the very end.

View Larger Map
Or download the kmz file and view in Google Earth

Peter’s account and his photos.

Related posts:

1. Hiking Oorlogskloof’s Rock Pigeon Trail Also known as “Wessel Reloaded” 5 days, 52.2 km (55.1...
2. Scherpenheuwel circuit, Franschhoek The Mountain Club’s plan was to head up to Perdekop...
3. Jonkershoek hiking Five k’s from my home in Stellenbosch is the rugged...

Take the best part of a day to walk it. Along the way you will be rewarded with a view down the spectacular Assegaaiboschkloof towards Franschhoek, panoramic views of the Jonkershoek valley as you traverse the edge of the Dwarsberg plateau, and finally a grandstand seat as the Helderberg bowl and False Bay unfold way down below. A Google Earth Track, the trail profile and some photos follow.

View Larger Map
Alternatively, download the kml track for viewing in Google Earth

All along the contour

Second Waterfall

Bergriviersnek in the mist

Approaching Boegoekloof - Kurktrekker junction

MCSA above Diepgat - Strand and False Bay below

 More photos

Related posts:

1. Climbing Twin Peaks, Jonkershoek Climbing Jonkershoek’s Twin Peaks (“Die Pieke“) is one of the...
2. Franschhoek to Jonkershoek via Assegaaiboschkloof The mountain club’s plan was to walk from Franschhoek to...
3. Climbing Haelkop, Jonkershoek Another mountain club uitstappie to Haelkop peak (1390 m), one...

Slanghoek from Slanghoek Peak

A fairly level and scenic walk from the car park at Eerste Tol on Bainskloof Pass of 12.5 km to a saddle below Slanghoek on Mountain Club property, known as Springstygbeugel¹, almost traverses the Limietberg range from west to east. The MCSA party of which I was part camped on the saddle on Saturday night. We tackled the ascent early the next morning in cool but sunny conditions, and later returned to the car park after a round trip of 29.7km (including a few detours). The hike goes through an elevation of about 1100m and rewards you with cool pools and stunning vistas. A Google Earth track of the hike and photos follow.

View Larger Map

If the 3D map and track above doesn’t work for you, download the kmz file and view in Google Earth.

From Slanghoek Peak we could see the smoke from the Du Toitskloof wildfire which the VWS crews had been fighting during the week, as well as a flare up below the peak. Soon after we left the peak an SMS calling a crew out to Slanghoek buzzed on my iphone. So I was almost “on the fireline”, but useless…  On some of the photos below the smoke and haze from the fires can clearly be seen.

Bainskloof and the Witte River are rich in historical stories. One such story² was related to us by a hiking club member who we met early on in the hike, a story about the “spookhuis”, Wolkerus, and how it came to be built by one Mr Hugo of Wellington, a jam magnate, and acquired notoriety in the ’70s (see waypoint for “Wolkerus” on the 3D map). The quote below comes from this excellent resource about Wolkerus:

Wolkerus 1941 2

Anyway, Mr Hugo developed this notion to build a house in the mountains of Bainskloof. He had this road built that you are walking on and built the house in the 1940’s, complete with swimming pool. Unsurprisingly his wife refused to go and live there. Mr Hugo died before he could move into his house and so the house stood empty for 8 years until it burnt down in a veld fire in 1949. Mr Hugo must have died a sad man.  I can clearly remember as a child the “spookhuis” (Ghost house) standing there hauntingly high up in the mountains. Only some walls and the gable ends were still standing at the time. You can imagine what spooky images were conjured up in a child’s mind. Sadly an escaped convict murdered two hikers there in 1978 and the ruins were demolished to the foundations, so all that is left is what you see today.

1. According to Coen Calitz, writing in the MCSA Stellenbosch Section’s newsletter no. 262, spring 2010, Springstygbeugel is so named because farm labourers from Worcester who used the route to visit friends and family in Wellington, required a stirrup (“stiebeugel”) suspended on a leather thong (“riem”) to swing across a particular crack. Furthermore, to reach the thong, they had to jump (“spring”). Hence, “springstygbeugel” …
2. From the booklet Bainskloof en ander bergstories, compiled by Winnie Rust.

Related posts:

1. Climbing Victoria Peak At 1589m Victoria Peak is the highest summit in the...
2. Victoria Peak with the Patagons At the beginning of the week that I finally became...
3. Scherpenheuwel circuit, Franschhoek The Mountain Club’s plan was to head up to Perdekop...

1. Tales of Buenos Aires and attempted “muggings”
2. Tourist tales of Buenos Aires and La Recoleta
3. Down to Bariloche and the Lynch-Frey Trek – our “shake down” hike
4. Stunning photos of Laguna Toncek
5. Mixing with the hippies of El Bolsòn and hitting the Los Hitos Trail
6. From Lago Puelo, across the Argentina-Chile border to Lago Las Rocas – very beautiful
7. Of Chilean humour, footballing sheep and our first contact with Chilean farmers
8. The road to Cochamó: trail’s end and ferries too
9. The Chilean contrasts: Cochamó and Puerto Varas
10. Welcome to the Chilean rainforest! Valle Cochamó
11. The Refugio and conservation in the Cochamó Valley
12. Mud, rain and trench warfare – the struggle to El Arco and beyond
13. Paradise found: Lago Vidal Gormaz
14. The farm at the end of the lake – Soto and Amelia’s piece of heaven
15. Rio Torrentoso and Rio Manso
16. Return to Argentina and eating dust on the professor’s bakkie
17. Cycling the spectacular Chico Circuit in Bariloche
18. The bus to BA and final thoughts.

Peter's not in this photo because he took it... Left to right: Andre, Billa, Harald, Kelson, Xandra, Ralph, Elena, Claire.

Related posts:

1. Patagonia Treks in Google Earth “The Earth never forgets that trees were its first thought”...
2. Patagonia trekking photos As you may know I have just returned from 3...

View Larger Map
3D map of Twin Peaks climb. If you can’t see the map, download the kmz file and view on Google Earth, or see the Google Map below.

View Larger Map

Stellenbosch MCSA outings often feature a number of ladies of … mature ages, shall we say. One of my climbing companions was 76 years of age – remarkable and inspirational. The photos below were taken on this particular hike. Unfortunately, it was a bit cloudy. Click on the photos to view them in a larger size.

From Jonkershoek album

Related posts:

1. Climbing Haelkop, Jonkershoek Another mountain club uitstappie to Haelkop peak (1390 m), one...
2. Climbing Victoria Peak At 1589m Victoria Peak is the highest summit in the...
3. Jonkershoek Panorama Route The Panorama Route is one of the Jonkershoek valley’s classic...

or view the album

Here’s a prelim interactive map giving the photo locations, while I prep the GPS tracks:

View Larger Map

Related posts:

1. Patagonia Treks in Google Earth “The Earth never forgets that trees were its first thought”...
2. Patagonia in March I’m looking forward to my first foray to South America,...
3. Rim of Africa photos Here are the photos from the Rim of Africa Conservation...

A crew of 10 volunteers reported to the Jonkershoek base at 06h00 on Saturday and then trucked through to Robertsvlei near Franschhoek where the firefighting base had been established. We watched the four Hueys set off up the valley to waterbomb the fireline while we waited for the Fire Boss to decide how to deploy us. Eventually, after a couple of hours waiting we boarded a Huey and headed up to a high ridge west of Fortsnek, from where we had to hike a couple of kays along the watershed to reach a fireline. We spent the rest of the day securing the line towards Emerald Peak with rake-hoes and beaters in a raging north-wester. It is amazing how a fire slowly moves into the teeth of a gale by causing adjacent vegetation to combust. So we were quite chuffed that we stopped that movement on the watershed, because from there the fire would move north into the Jonkershoek reserve which after sustaining 30% fire damage a year ago, has a lot of fynbos veld that needs to be free of fire for up to a decade at least.

In the late afternoon we radioed for extraction and prepared a landing zone near one of the peaks, but apparently wind and altitude (about 1300m) were concerns for the pilots. A debate then ensued about whether we should wait or start walking down. Some were apparently prepared to spend the night, but from experience I know that wind-swept mountains are not places to spend the night without appropriate gear. Eventually the wise decision was made to head for the LZ where we had deplaned in the morning and as we approached it from above the Hueys thumped into sight. The fast hike down to the LZ caused a couple of injuries, but we were happy to board the yellow machines – especially as it had become too late to pick our way down the mountain via Fortsnek.

However, the LZ which had featured intact vegetation but a few hours before was now a fire-blackened ridge. I don’t quite understand how the fire which was always south of us and on the southern aspect of the mountains somehow flared up north of and below us in Assegaaiboschkloof – this while a north-wester was blowing – and raced up the northern aspect to take the ridge late in the day. Our earlier satisfaction was immediately replaced by deflation.

To our surprise too, the chopper dropped us in a charred wasteland south of Franschhoek peak, on the opposite side from the firefighting base with the result that we spent about three hours waiting for a lift back. That was my first experience of a black ash-storm – the black stuff is still coming out of my ears.

View Larger Map

If the track doesn’t appear in the window above or you don’t want to install the plugin in your browser, then download the VWS operation’s Google Earth file and view it in Google Earth (download Google Earth) or see the Google Map below

The crew was ably led by Mark Randall and Hayley Marrison (VWS Jonkershoek station manager) who are both extremely keen volunteers. They pitch up at every callout and work party without fail – dedication to the cause.

In reflecting on the recent fires, it seems to be clear that almost without exception they were caused by human activity. The big one in the Groenland mountains was started by an arsonist, while this fire was apparently started when a Working for Water work party’s cooking fire escaped control. I would be quite happy to never be called out for a wildfire, unless it was caused by a lightning strike or to help control a controlled burn; my attitude is informed by concerns about the conservation of biodiversity and the effect of too-frequent fires on biodiversity. So I believe that the VWS should emphasise fire-prevention strategies such as awareness-building and education more in its activities. By “awareness” I don’t mean “awareness of the VWS” but awareness about the causes, dangers and ecological implications of fires…

View Larger Map

Official VWS site – Want to volunteer? Click here (note: apply before March of each year)

Related posts:

1. Volunteer Wildfire Services Jonkershoek As I was contemplating a short post about the Volunteer...
2. Franschhoek to Jonkershoek via Assegaaiboschkloof The mountain club’s plan was to walk from Franschhoek to...
3. Jonkershoek Panorama Route The Panorama Route is one of the Jonkershoek valley’s classic...

Related posts:

1. A Table Mountain circuit In all the years of walking on the mountain I...
2. Patagonia trekking photos As you may know I have just returned from 3...
3. Simonstown to Smitswinkel on foot We took the Old Mule Trail up to Blockhouse Gap...